What is the hydrolypIC barrier?
I have probably mentioned to you what the protective barrier is and how important it is. But i wanted to write about it so you can revisit in case you forgot.
The hydrolipic barrier consists of both superficial and deep skin fats as well as moisture-retaining components. Moisture is needed in the epidermis for the proper functioning of living cells. If the epidermis is properly moisturized, the production of young cells and the formation of new epidermis increases. Corneocytes (dead epidermis cells) more efficiently free up space for new cells from the inside of the epidermis towards the skin surface. But moisture and oil alone are not enough. The skin barrier is also referred to in the context of the bacterial layer present on the surface of the epidermis. Epidermal cell growth and division relies on well-regulated cellular communication processes. Keratinocytes and other cells in the skin produce the so-called cytokines responsible for controlling the transmission of information between cells. Cytokines are molecules that tell other cells to do something, to make something specific happen in the skin. The way cytokines communicate can have many consequences for the skin's barrier function. For example, cytokines influence the maturation of epidermal cells - keratinocytes, in part by modulating gene expression in these cells. One consequence of the effects on genes is the control of other cytokines, which contributes to the complex network of signaling molecules that influence the physiology of keratinocytes and thus the quality of the skin barrier. Thus, the dysregulated work of cytokines may contribute to the dysfunction of the epidermal barrier.
When can this be seen on the skin?
In many diseases, e.g. atopic dermatitis, psoriasis or during incorrect transmission of information between cells due to other diseases, such as diabetes or hypothyroidism.
The lipids of epidermal cells and the continuous action of the bacterial flora on the skin surface under healthy conditions are the key guardians of the epidermal barrier.
The main lipid components in human sebum include: squalene, wax esters, triglycerides.
They are responsible for the antifungal and antibacterial properties of the skin. So if something disturbs the functioning of the natural lipid protection in the epidermis, bacteria and fungi can easily penetrate inside. Not only that, parasites can also live on our skin very easily.
When can we not be afraid that the skin will pass unwanted visitors? This is where antioxidants come to our aid. In addition to antioxidants, moisturizing cosmetics that quickly penetrate into the epidermis, which not only moisturize themselves, but also bind water in the epidermis, are also useful. Such moisturizing ingredients include: urea, hyaluronic acid lactic, or e.g. common glycerin. To seal the water barrier, i.e. to protect the moisture layers, I recommend using creams with oiling ingredients, i.e .: ceramides, fatty acids, triglycerides, vegetable and animal oils. You probably think that it's not for you, because you already have oily and shiny skin, so you avoid greasy substances. Completely unnecessary. Lipids can be applied by any person, with any type of skin. The key to success, however, is the type of oil you are applying. If the skin is extremely dry, dehydrated, reactive, oversensitive, then occlusion works best, a fat that will not let water from the epidermis pass through and prevent this water from evaporating. On the other hand, people with oily and clogging skin would certainly not survive even a day with such oily care. These people should choose creams with lipids similar in composition to those naturally present in the skin, and those that are not a heavy barrier. For example creams that mimic the ingredients in the skin like the DMS (DERMA MEMBRANE STRUCTURE) line from Dermaviduals.